Saturday, 8 December 2012

Bvumba: The Tourists' paradise


Clouds Land in the Bvumba Mountains


Pic. Road winding up the mountain; flowers at leopard rock
Lodges: white horse inn, kwayedza, leopard rock, tonys, castle on the

Driving through the rugged, fauna rich and misty Bvumba Mountains is an exhilarating experience. An experience that remains etched in one’s mind forever.

Rarely is an area so much blessed natural resorts like Bvumba. The rolling mountain ridges, lush green rainforests, more than 100bird species, unique fauna and an lots of wild game.

The mountain range have a mystic aura about them to tourists further compounded by nearly all year round misty that envelopes it. When the misty disperses it leaves breathtaking views which can be enjoyed at so many points.

One can enjoy a 270 degrees aerial view of border towns Mutare (Zimbabwe) and Machipanda (Mozambique), Forbes Border Post and the inviting mountain ridges in the east from natural viewing platforms such as world famous Prince of Wales View.

The winding mountain road from Prince of Wales View

 From the Clouds End one can see well into Mozambique on a clear day and even imagine seeing the blue Indian Ocean beyond.

The impressive views make one feel like flying, above the world but the lush green forests and the chattering of birds and insects remind one that they are still on mother earth.

Rolling Mountains

It is a  pity that my Sunday morning drive I met a few tourists in the area. Some lodges have closed down but the few that are still operating still offer excellent services.

The closed down Vumba Gateway Lodge


Vumba is still a paradise. On my other page Hotels & Lodges I would be posting some of the functional hotels that I visited.


Thursday, 8 November 2012

Victoria Falls: More than the falls to enjoy



The iconic Victoria Falls Bridge, 111 metres above the Zambezi River was completed in 1905.
Visiting the idyllic Victoria Falls on the mighty Zambezi River has been exciting travel enthusiasts since 1855 when the great British explorer and missionary David Livingstone became the first European to see them. More than 2 million people visit the Falls annually from all over the world.

The falls known among the locals as Mosi O Tunya- the smoke that thunders - is one of the world's seven natural wonders, a United Nations Heritage Site. The magnificent falls are found on the border of Zimbabwe and Zambia where the Zambezi river plunges into a 108 metre-deep chasm over a fault line that was created millions of years ago.


The river plunges into the gorge with a thunderous roar as millions of litres of water per second pour into the chasm and billowing a mist into the air that can be seen from 10 kilometres when the river is in high tide.

Livingstone - the first European to see the falls is famously quoted as having said, the Victoria Falls is "scenes so lovely must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight."

The river and the spray at the falls have created a natural rain forest that in itself is worthy a visit. Both countries, Zimbabwe and Zambia have created national parks filled with the big five and other small plains game that will give an amazing and exhilarating experience to those who love wildlife.

The wildlife and rainforests made the difference. Little has been spoken of them but they are the first things to welcome tourists to the Falls. As I arrived at my hotel in the Victoria Falls town I was greeted by wild animals that are not afraid to get near built up areas. Its simple the whole town is surrounded by a national park.



a male warthog stand challenging my intrusion



Some gazelles freely mingling with warthogs

gazelles running away from vehicles near the entrance to a hotel


One can also enjoy the scenery of the national park and the falls from the air. A number of helicopter companies offer different rides over the park and falls for durations from as short as 12 minutes to a maximum of 30 minutes.

Flying over the Falls


Tourists disembarking from a helicopter as other go aboard

A visit to Victoria Falls cannot be complete without taking one of the sun downer boat cruises along the Zambezi. One can experience the golden sunset over the hills while rocking in the therapeutic boat rides and being able to have a good view of both banks of the meandering river.

a wide section of the river where cruises are just a pleasure


I could not resist developing the river site in a black and white photograph as I tried to imagine what the view would have looked like in the past when photography was in black and white. Below is the result.


Golf enthusiasts can enjoy a round of their game on a championship golf course that is on the banks of the river with spectacular views and hazards. The course is close to a hotel establishment.

The 18 hole championship golf course

For adrenaline junkies, one can go white water rafting along the Zambezi or bungee jumping from the 107 years old Victoria Falls Bridge that joins Zimbabwe and Zambia over the Zambezi River. Construction of the bridge was financed by Cecil John Rhodes who unfortunately did not see the completed structure after he died in 1902, three years before it could be commissioned. The bridge is unique in that it also has a railway. Tourists can enjoy a ride to the bridge from the town centre through the rain forest to the bridge in a steam locomotive.

Victoria Falls Bridge where one can do bungee jumping

The story of Victoria Falls can never be complete without talking of its warm people and the beautiful crafts they make. The crafts among other things include carvings of face masks, wildlife, beads and nyau dancers. The crafts are all made from durable hard wood which are naturally available in the dry region.

some curios on display in a crafts shop
On my last day in Victoria Falls, I failed to resist the temptation of clicking my camera one more time to capture the growing Zambian town of Livingstone just across the Zambezi River. Felt like I could touch but one had to cross 'the river between' to do that. Probably next time I am around Victoria Falls I would be able to have a view from the other side.

The growing town of Livingstone from Zimbabwean side

Till then, I catch you from some other resort next time.

Wednesday, 31 October 2012

Save River: Centuries of Tourism Secrets


Birchenough Bridge straddling across Save River. The single span bridge is  329  metres long.

Save River is more like the Ngugi waThiong's River Between. The River Between in waThiong's book was a culture clash but this mythical river in Zimbabwe is not only full of rich and colourful trade history but also the divide between the animal rich semi-arid lowveld and the scenic and fauna rich eastern highlands.

The 400 kilometre Save River starts some 80 kilometres south of Harare, Zimbabwe's capital, flowing in a general south direction slowly meandering into Manicaland province and then into arid Masvingo. The river continues flowing deep into Masvingo before suddenly veering into an eastern direction towards the Indian Ocean.

Save natures three large wildlife conservancies along its trail to the Indian Ocean: Save Conservancy one of the world's biggest privately owned wildlife sanctuaries, Gonarezhou National Park a perk that has one of the largest elephant population and Zanave National Park in Mozambique. All these parks have Africa's big five among their inhabitants. These are the lion, African elephant, black rhinoceros, buffalo and the leopard.

Historically, save was a transport route for gold and trade goods between the coast and the hinterland occupied by the civilisations of Great Zimbabwe in the 13th and 14th centuries AD.

Save River as it crosses Birchenough Bridge after meandering through Chiadzwa  diamond fields beyond the mountain ridge.
 It is from this same Save River that my trails would take me deep into the lowveld to explore wildlife in Save Conservancies, Lake Mtirikwi National Park, visit the Great Zimbabwe Ruins, the expansive Gonarezhou and its splendid scenery such as the red hills and Chilojo Cliffs in the coming days, weeks and months. Meet and hear stories from the locals, their co-existence with wildlife and the stories of the foreign tourists coming again and again to witness wild Africa.

After the lowveld we will travel together to explore the mystic eastern Highlands with their rivers, valleys, mountains and unique fauna and European weather. These journeys would take us through Chimanimani, Nyanga, Mutare, Vumba and centuries old equatorial Chirinda Forests.